There are several important aspects of finishing of a deck, and if
stain is being used anywhere on your deck project, wood staining is one
of them. A good stain will help protect your wood from sun and moisture
damage, and when properly maintained, will add greatly to the life span
and looks of your sundeck.
There are many different kinds of
stains, and a main division between them is whether the product
penetrates the wood, or attaches to it topically like a paint. My
preference is a penetrating stain, but of course, there are pros and
cons to each. For example, a penetrating stain will be much harder to
remove should you choose to change pigment, but in return, offers a much
better attachment to wood than a topical type.
Preparing The Wood
When
applying a stain, the first consideration is the condition of the wood
itself. It must be dry for proper adhesion, regardless of the type of
stain used. Ideally, the wood's moisture content should be no greater
than ten percent, and less is better. It is worthwhile using a moisture
meter to check. A properly cured and dried wood will save labour and
materials in the long run. I recommend sound planning that includes
either buying dry or kilned wood stock for immediate use, or arranging
storage for wet wood and then air drying it. A general rule for air
drying is one year per inch of thickness. Use "stickers," squared or
rectangular sticks of at least one inch thickness placed at right angles
to your deck stock and every three to four feet apart along its length,
and keep the weather from it.
Another important consideration is whether your wood deck surface
will be smooth or rough. Rough decking means wood that has come directly
from the sawmill, and has not been planed smooth using, guess what?... a
mechanical device called a planer. It will not usually be dry enough to
stain at this point. Rough deck wood offers a rugged look, and requires
only cleaning to remove sawdust and accumulated dirt. If the wood is
really dirty, don't buy it, but most accumulation can be removed using a
stiff bristled brush (avoid wire brushes unless they have thin, pliable
bristles and are used gently). Do not wash it using water. Instead,
search for wood washing products at your building supply store, or using
the internet. There are several good ones out there.
Most people
prefer a smooth deck surface, however. Assuming your wood is dry and
seemingly smooth, it is not yet ready for stain, and this is the only
disadvantage to planed wood: it needs sanding. This is because of
"planer hammer," a state resulting from the planning process that
compresses the surface fibres of wood. This compression actually
decreases the permeability of wood to coatings, topical or penetrating.
Experiment a little on a scrap. An 80 grit sandpaper applied to the wood
surface with even pressure will remove compressed surface fibres. To
regain the smooth surface that you're looking for, finish off the
sanding process with 120 grit, and continue with 180 grit if you're
really finicky. Remember that this is not a cabinetry finish being
applied; it is a surface that will take a beating from deckchairs, feet,
and weather.
Note that sanding to remove planer hammer is particularly important
on horizontal surfaces, and less so on vertical ones such as railing
pales. Overall, these horizontal surfaces such as the deck surface
itself and railing tops will bear most of the wearing influences.
Applying Coats
Probably
one of the most important questions that comes up with staining
projects is, How many coats? One coat stains are usually penetrating
stains. They usually cost more, but save labour. I usually apply at
least two coats of any stain regardless of type, but more is better.
Never apply a coat thickly thinking this will save time. Nor do I sand
between coats because I'm not going for a cabinetry finish. If you want
this, experiment on scraps. It will pay off in terms of looks and
longevity of deck coating, but add a lot of labour to your project
unless you have specialised sanding equipment on hand. As always,
research products thoroughly, ask questions, and once you've decided on a
stain, read the label carefully.
Most of our staining projects
are required in areas less than ideal for stain application. Because I
take no chances at this important finishing stage, I've taken to
ensuring dry applications that will guarantee good adhesion, despite
what the nearby ocean or rainforest choose to do on a given day. This
means using a weatherproof garage, or even setting up an outdoor shed to
keep the weather off my projects. Such measures create a short term
pain, long term gain scenario, but for me, means keeping to the
production schedule. Yes, this means staining a board or two at a time,
then, if possible, standing shorter lengths of wood up to dry to save
space. I've never sprayed stain, believing a brushed-on finish more
effective, but many will argue for spray-on applications. This approach
makes a lot of sense when staining lathwork, which is a common
application, and requires arduous brush time. At present, were I to
spray on a stain, I would only do so on vertical surfaces which
withstand weather much better.
Do You Have to Stain?
Finally, we come to the question
of whether or not to stain. A properly applied stain protects the wood
as mentioned, but if you're using a wood like heartwood cedar that
resists inclement conditions, this consideration is largely an aesthetic
one. Uncoated wood will generally turn grey within days. Also, some
stains are not "green" products, requiring various processes that
negatively affect the environment from manufacture to application and
clean up. Fortunately, thanks to the internet, researching products that
suit your needs is easier than ever.
I've almost forgotten to
mention one very important element of getting a good stain coating on
wood: some people enjoy doing it. And as is usually the case when
pleasure in a job well done is involved, the result will be better. If
you're planning a staining project, find this kind of person and treat
them well.
Tag : patio deck,stain,deck contractor,deck
